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Forcing A Magnetically Locked Door?

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any tricks to opening a door locked by a magnet?

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Kill the power?

In all seriousness, good question...If you were to kill the power, does the electromagnet contain a battery backup?

Edited by EMSJunkie712

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In my experience with magnetically locked doors (i.e. schools, hospitals) once the power is tripped or a pull station is activated they are supposed to de-activate the magnetic lock. However, I suppose there is a way to connect magnetic locks to a back-up system but why? The main purpose for magnetic locks is to have the doors close in the event of fire, right?

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In my experience with magnetically locked doors (i.e. schools, hospitals) once the power is tripped or a pull station is activated they are supposed to de-activate the magnetic lock. However, I suppose there is a way to connect magnetic locks to a back-up system but why? The main purpose for magnetic locks is to have the doors close in the event of fire, right?

'

some doors are magnetically sealed, such as all the locked doors in YVAC...once the card is swiped, the electromagnet curcuit opens, and the door becomes unlocked. Its quite the powerful lock too...I think you hvae a better chance of breaking the door before you break the lock.

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In my experience with magnetically locked doors (i.e. schools, hospitals) once the power is tripped or a pull station is activated they are supposed to de-activate the magnetic lock. However, I suppose there is a way to connect magnetic locks to a back-up system but why? The main purpose for magnetic locks is to have the doors close in the event of fire, right?

The point of magnetic doors (at least in the cases I am thinking of) are plainly for security, like local banks. I am sure the fire protection may play a part, but normally, it is a security issue.

One trick-of-the-trade that was taught to me to open these doors is through the use of either a hydra-ram, or rabbit tool. If the door has a D-handle, and you are able to stick some sort of straight object, i.e. a strong screwdriver, or small pipe, something to that effect, then placing your hydraulic tool with the front facing the other door (if a double door) or the door jamb, and the back of the tool against the object placed in the door handle, by opening the hydraulic tool, you are forcing the object wedged in the door handle, to pull the magnetically sealed door backwards, and break that seal. I will search for a schematic, or a better description, but I hope I have kind of explained it somewhat well!

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In the case of a pull station or fire alarm activation, exterior doors are supposed to unlock to faciliate egress from the building. There may be circumstances that the door is designed to 'fail secure' as part of their security requirements.

Most places that utilize MagLocks do have a means of battery backup in the event of a power failure, to maintain security.

I know Putnam Valley Vac utilized MagLocks on the entry and some interior doors, all of which will unlock in the event of a pull station / Fire alarm activation, but will stay secure during a power failure for an extended period.

I cant state for sure, but you are probably going to break the door before you break the magnetic contacts, depending on the type of lock used.

Stuart

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If the door is locked from a top mount mag place a halligan bar low in the door for a grip point for pressure then with a flat head axe hit the metal door top (at magnet) with a good shot that will break the contact and you can pull the door open. I have done this many times and it works great. DO NOT HIT THE DOOR IF IT ALL GLASS opppppppssssss.

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If the door is locked from a top mount mag place a halligan bar low in the door for a grip point for pressure then with a flat head axe hit the metal door top (at magnet) with a good shot that will break the contact and you can pull the door open. I have done this many times and it works great. DO NOT HIT THE DOOR IF IT ALL GLASS  opppppppssssss.

I believe that the reason why this works, isn't because you've actually created enough force to beat the door off it's magnetic lock, but rather because magnets are subject to losing their polarity when subjected to physical shock. Often times if you drop a magnet from the 'fridge onto the floor enough times, it won't work.

Thus, by striking the top of the door where the electromagnet is holding the door closed, you are temporaraly disrupting the polarity that allows the magnet to secure the door thus the door is released. Without using the halligan to pre-load the door to the direction you need it to go, the magnet will recover it's polarity and you won't be able to open it.

I don't know if I'm correct about this so someone please correct me if I'm not.

Edited by mfc2257

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If the door is locked from a top mount mag place a halligan bar low in the door for a grip point for pressure then with a flat head axe hit the metal door top (at magnet) with a good shot that will break the contact and you can pull the door open. I have done this many times and it works great. DO NOT HIT THE DOOR IF IT ALL GLASS  opppppppssssss.

Same Idea, but just Line up the halligan and tap it between the door and the magnet. Then a quick downward pry and it will pop. If you can't get in the door you might not be able to shut off the power.

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As a security operations manager at a local office park, I cans ay I am somewhat familiar with these locks.

Yes they are designed for security. In the event of a power faliure most systems are designed to use a battery back-up in which it could last up to 16 hours. Usually all these systems are designed to release once an alarm is activated.

One of the best things to do is (if the facility has a knox box) get an access card from property management and have it in the knox-box. Always do pre-incident survey and know what type of security you may encounter at a specif facility.

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appreciate the repsonses and suggestions. this site proves a great forum for tapping our collective knowledge.

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I have had some limited success taking a swift shot with a maul at the magnet area. If not and you really need to get in ...

The ease of opening depends on the type of hardware and the type of installation. There are a few ways to wire a mag lock. If there is an external key switch mounted on the frame or the wall near the door it can be as simple as pulling the switch out of the wall or frame and cutting the wires....if the switch goes to a control unit you may have to touch the wires together. If there is a card reader on the outside then you would have to attack the mag lock itself. Most mag locks use and "armature" plate mounted to the door held on with a large "sex bolt" which usually can be identified as looking like a large head of a carriage bolt. If u weaken the door around the bolt or cut the head of the bolt off You should be able to force the door open....some mag locks are mounted to aluminum frames with "riv-nuts" which can usually be pulled out of the frame when the door is forced.

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Excellent post, good question. I have learned something new.

Another question...how hard is it to attack the hinge side of these doors with either hydraulics or irons? Could you cut the door around the mag lock and enter this way? Ironic, our doors at the firehouse are magnetic and I never gave thought to this!! :lol:

Thanks for the info guys.

Jonesy

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Heavy project type door tip. (WNYF Magazine).........

post-182-1147463483.jpg

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Being in charge of maintience in a large textiles warehouse, I have several mag lock doors and other types of high security door and locks. Per my installer ,who is also a FF in Conn, hitting the door at the top to disrupt polarity is probably the only way to open a mag lock door without code or key pass being used. One other way is to hit the door by the magnet assembly and attempt to break the 4" screws that hold the magnet to the door frame.Conventional methods are impossible, as you need 1500 lbs of force to break the hold of the magnet. Another method is to open the wall in the area of the door knob/lock assembly and either hit the release button or -last resort-short the wires out. As for attacking hinges or cutting the door, time consuming and tough. Most of the doors that mag locks are on are steel fire doors-tough, some are wood-easy, and some are glass-easier.hinges will go easy-pull pins or shear them off-and then pry from bottom up. Cutting might be tough as using the saw in a awkward position, and getting close enough to the frame to make a complete cut. One thing to remember, a 1st or 2nd floor window will be easier to get in and cheaper to fix. Another type of lock we all have seen, is the 5 number push button lock-the method taught to me and i have used with good results is to strike the top of the lock assembly with a FH axe or sledge and knock it off the door and turn the dead bolt with a shove knife or a FH screwdriver.The best method to deal with these doors and locks is already been mentioned, knox box with pass keys and FD codes for doors, and if the companies and businesses you deal with balk at giving them out, explain to them just what will happen if you have to get into their establishment at 2 am.

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Heavy project type door tip. (WNYF Magazine).........

this way works best...at least with project doors!

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I have had some good luck with office building doors using a slimjim.

Some doors I have come across have a motion sensor on the top inside of the door which release when some walks up to the door. I have tried to get something to trip the door, but next time I come across one I will.

If you can get access to the push to release button on the inside you might be able to get a slimjim in the crack around the door and push the button. So easy it's like cheating, and it's even better when done after truck gives up on the door first.

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Heavy project type door tip. (WNYF Magazine).........

Thanks for posting that image!! That was precisely what I had meant in my posing earlier, but I did not have any images to reference!!

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Nice.... Its topics, and information like this, that makes this board particularlly good.

Thanks for the info. people!

Edited by Rich DD

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Heavy project type door tip. (WNYF Magazine).........

The way that is being shown; wont that break the glass on the door? Another thing i am pondering is if the door is a "heavy project" door, isn't the door handle probibly going to fail before the mag does?...that is ofcorse if the glass lasts that long. (i don't really know anything about these doors so im sure im overlooking somthing)...One thing i do know and can attest to is that mags do get messed up when they are exposed to shock. I remember doing that is science.

Edited by Firefighter57

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The way that is being shown; wont that break the glass on the door? Another thing i am pondering is if the door is a "heavy project" door, isn't the door handle probibly going to fail before the mag does?...that is ofcorse if the glass lasts that long.  (i don't really know anything about these doors so im sure im overlooking somthing)...One thing i do know and can attest to is that mags do get messed up when they are exposed to shock.  I remember doing that is science.

on a heavy project door, the glass is pretty much unbreakable, the handles are strong, but the magnets usually fail way before the handle will break, but either way remember if you have gotten to that point you will have more pressing concerns than breaking a front door. Like every door, you should be getting a purchase, and increasing the gaps each time.

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on a heavy project door, the glass is pretty much unbreakable, the handles are strong, but the magnets usually fail way before the handle will break, but either way remember if you have gotten to that point you will have more pressing concerns than breaking a front door. Like every door, you should be getting a purchase, and increasing the gaps each time.

One very important thing that has been over looked is maintaining that door so that later arriving units don't have to go through the whole process. Chock the door and I have found that putting a large nail on the magnet itself will keep the door from locking if the chock gets knocked down.

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